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New commuting headlight Like computers headlights have improved by leaps and bounds the last few years. This past summer I sold my old Cygo-Lite light on eBay and used the proceeds to go towards a new NiteNider MiNewt cordless. It has 50 more lumen output, the weighs about 2 pound less, no water bottle batter or wires, charges in 1/2 the time and I can changer from my PC at work via USB too. All this for under $100 which is what I paid for the Cygo-Lite Nitro XM 4 years ago).
If yours headlight is more than 3 years old treat your self to one of the new models on the market and enjoy a few extra hours of riding.
Old Tips of the month
| Title | Description | Author | | Handlebar Real Estate | This year I switch cycling computers and opted for a stem mount instead of normal the handlebar. I quickly see why this has become so popular in the pro peloton. While I believe this has been pushed more by mechanics than cyclist here are the benefits:
I can re-tape my bars, mount new cables, or even switch out bars with out having to touch or remove the computer. It is a little easier to reach the button with either hand. Visually, I think looks better and I have a 2 more inches of space for my hands. | Wallace Wormley | | Ferrules | Ferrules are often over looked when replacing cable housing. Most people use the one supplied in the bag with the new cable and housing kit. The problem is some companies cheap out and place sub par ferrules. Ferrules come in two common sizes. 4mm is for derailleur housing and 5mm is for brake hosing. Campy housing is 4.7mm and Avid/Sram flak jacket 4.5mm are two exceptions. You have to use 5mm for derailleur. They also come in brass, aluminum, plastic, and stainless steel. Plastic ferrules are common because Shimano uses them as standard equipment. However I have found that they are susceptible to stretching, crack, and overall high failure rate. Stainless tend to have sharp edges which can fray cables. Brass (which often come chromed so they look like stainless) or aluminum ferrules are the best. They are more durable than plastic but since they are softer than stainless or galvanized cable that runs through them. If there is any cable rub the ferrule it will wear and not fray your cables. The better brass and aluminum ferrules are machined (not stamped) and non-crimpping. When installing apply a good coat of marine grease to the outer part of the ferrule before inserting them into the cable stop on frames, brakes, and derailleur. This will prevent the ferrule from later becoming seized in your beautiful frame and/or component. | Wallace Wormley | | Teflon Tape | In last months tip I mentioned Teflon tape. I use this to wrap the threads of my bottom bracket before installation. You can of course always also use a heavy duty marine or waterproof grease or anti-seize. I prefer Teflon tape for several reasons.
- Cleaner. Less mess is always better.
- Will not wash out in bad weather.Although if using a marine/waterproof grease or anti-size this should not happen.
- Eliminates BB creaking. I found that this can sometimes solve mystery creaking BB/crank noises.
You should use 1/2 width and .3mil thickness tape. Other widths are okay but always try to get the thinnest mil you can get.
Here is how to wrap you BB cup threads.
Wrap in the direction of the threads. Wrapping the wrong way may result in the tape coming unwound as you install the BB cups.
Start with a 2 loops around at the end (start at the threads that will be inserted into the frame first), then wrap all the threads, overlapping half the width of the tape on each wind.
As you wrap, keep tension on the tape so that it is pulled into the threads.
If you remove the BB cups, remove the old tape and rewrap with a fresh piece. | Wallace Wormley | | Grease is the Word | Most of us have 2 or 3 different lubes for different applications. However when it comes to grease most mechanics use only one for everything. You should have at least 2 different types of grease in you tool box. A light or thin and thick. I use the thick marine grease (Pedros Syn or Phil Wood)for pedals, BB, and headsets and use the lighter grease (Finish Line) for hubs and occasions where a lighter grease is needed. Rember grease does go bad so while it may be tempting to buy a big tub that cost almost the same as a 3 oz. tube. Don't buy more than you will be able to use in 2 years. After that replace it. A small grease gun is also great and serves several purposes.
- Helps you put the grease right where you need it.
- Less waste because you are able to control amount and location less ends up on shop rags.
- Better storage for your grease and it is less likely to get contaminated from dirty brushes.
You should also have anti-seize, loctite (242-blue and 222-purple) and Teflon tape. I have found these to work better than grease in certain places. I've discussed anti-seize in a previous tip of the month but I'll explain more on the last 2 later. | Wallace Wormley | | Bottom Brackets (update) | 2000 - Switched from square tapered to Octalink
2004 - Switched to ISIS
2007 - Switched to the external bearing design.
Each upgrade was an improvement in design both design and function. Each was noticeable stiffer and lighter set-up than the previous. However while the Octalink and ISIS were improvements, they fell short when it came to bearing life. BB would last only last a fraction of the time of the old square tapered. I have tried different companies each promissing better performance. Better seals or bearings, an extra row or 2 bearings but none lived up to the marketed hype. Which leads me to believe that the design is limited by the amount of room they have for bearings in the BB shell and that nothing would resolve this issue. I have decided to try the external BB set-up and see if it has all the positives and resolves the one negative. I'll post an update at the end of the season and let you know how the external bearing set-up is working. On my cross bike I am trying yet another ISIS make and model and see how that one goes too.
| Wallace Wormley | | Slipping carbon bars and seatpost | Use the new orange "assembly paste" for carbon. Tacx has sold this in Europe for a few years, but now both Ritchey and FSA sell it in the USA. It is like grease, but it is a paste containing millions of small plastic spheres. Unlike using an abrasive in a greasy suspension, like valve-grinding compound, or just stirring some sand in with grease (both of which often work in this kind of a case), the Ritchey/FSA/Tacx assembly paste won't scratch the seatpost (or handlebar or whatever you are tightening). The little spheres push back against the seat tube walls as hard as they are compressed, and they don't just squeeze out of the way as grease would. | Lennard Zinn |
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